The Bassassinator is a fly I came up with one evening while thinking about making a fly that would have plenty of baitfish like movement and push water when stripped while being having a very slow sink rate. It will almost suspend when stopped. I have fished it many times recently and the Smallmouth and Hybrid bass have been crushing it.
This is probably not a great beginner fly but it is also not the most challenging. I tie it on TMC 8089 bass bug hooks. Size 2 front hook and size 10 rear hook.
Here are the basic materials needed to tie this fly.
Start with the size 10 hook and start your 210 denier thread at the mid-point and wrap back to the bend. Tie in a clump of marabou a little longer than the shank length.
Next tie in chenille and two hackle feathers by the tip and the same place you tied down the marabou.
Stack the two feathers and the chenille. Using a method similar to the Complex Twist from Fly Fish Food I spin these until I have a nice rope of material.
The wrap this rope forward being careful to not trap to many hackle fibers. Stop about 1/4 the shank length back from the eye. Tie off and trim off the excess.
Next I will take another hackle and trim it in half. Tie in the tip of longer hackle section and palmer 3-4 wraps of hackle where you just stopped with the rope.
Now take a small clump of deer body hair and spin it on the remaining part of the hook shank with the tips of the hair just short of the length of the shank. I would say about 3/4 a pencil thickness is the right amount of hair.
Hold the butts of the hair back and whip finish.
After tying off your thread trim the butts of the hair into a small cone-shaped head.
Take your choice of articulation wire (I’m using 40lb. power pro braid) and thread it through the eye leaving plenty of extra and add 3 5mm red bead. I like using red beads as I think it looks like the gill flash or bleeding of an injured fish.
Mount the size 2 hook in your vice and dress 3/4 of the hook with thread.
Take the articulation wire (or line) and lay it over the top of the hook and tie it down well. Add super glue or adhesive of your choice then make a few more wraps over the entire area. Take a break to let it dry.
Next take 2 marabou feather and tie one in on each side of the hook allowing the tips to extend just past the rear most bead.
The next section is done exactly like the rear hook. Tie in chenille and 2 hackles. I use feathers with more webbing and longer barbs on this section.
Twist it up and palmer it 3/4 of the way up the hook shank.
Trim off the excess after securing at the stopping point. Next add 2 or 3 silicone legs on each side of the hook.
Then take a clump of deer hair about twice as big as you used on the rear section and spin it on the remaining hook shank.
Hold the butts back and tie off the thread. Here is where it can get tricky. Trim the butts into a cone shape just a little smaller than the inside of the 7mm Fish Mask.
For attaching the Fish Mask I have found the brushable Clear Cure Goo works very good. I use the tackfree but I’m sure many other UV products would work as well. Coat the entire head of the fly with a thin coat. You can work the epoxy into the head with the brush.
Slide on the Fish Mask and cure with the light. I have found the CCG Pro light is well worth the money as it cures faster and harder than the standard light.
I was lucky enough to get some of the new flexible Fish Masks from Flymen Fishing Company. They are currently available in 5-7mm and will soon be available in all sizes. They seem to be holding up well and are easy to use.
Trim the legs even with the bend of the front hook.
Stick on the Flymen Living Eyes to the FishMask and cover with Clear Cure Goo Hydro.
Now your ready to go out and catch some fish! I like to fish it with a long strip and a short pause. And I wouldn’t use anything less than 3x tippet. Good luck!